Category Archives: Late 19th Century Costumes

Easiest Victorian bustle ever

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Easiest Victorian bustle ever

From Amazon to Amazing!…err sort of

I’m starting to think more seriously about preparing for our upcoming Spring Victorian Soiree in April and when I took stock of my wardrobe it had been a little while *coughtenyearscough* since I have worn a bustle. And when I looked for said bustle it was…probably lost to the sands of time. Plus I have grown significantly as a person costumer since then so I may not have fit my new bigger personality….waist. So it was time to make a new one!

Bustle from
Corsets and Crinolines

Option one would of course be to sew one. The above bustle from Corsets and Crinolines is a great starting point if you are motivated to do so. However, I am currently working a LOT and feeling a touch overwhelmed by it all and was hoping for a bit of a cheat code. I looked on etsy and there are several great ones to be had but at $100-$200 a pop well that could be a whole dress length of fabric. So I started to look for other options. And would you believe you can get a bustle on Amazon of all place Who knew? Bustle

Hey lookit that. It’s so…bustley

It was $30 and part of me was honestly curious what would arrive…and in 2 days on Prime it showed up at my door looking just as expected. Impressive really.

What you get for $30

  • What feels like a cotton blend
  • Steel hoops, not the super heavy buckram covered stuff you’d get 10 years ago but the stuff that comes in bridal hoops now
  • ties at the waist
  • Bones are a little short in the channel
  • Funny top to be explained later

Easy ways to upgrade

Grogu is helping

The first thing I did to improve my bustle (I apologize that I didn’t think to take BEFORE photos just after, I’m such a good blogger), was to take off the waist tie. I wanted to put on a more substantial waistband that would close in the middle with a tie.

The second thing I did was wrestle it inside out so I could awkwardly wedge it into the sewing machine and take a 1″ish (heavy on the -ish) dart out of the center so I could pull the U tighter and it would have more pronounced backward thrust.

Behold my beauty.

Amanda was very helpfully at sewing day when I was working on this and had her recreation of the Corsets and Crinolines’ bustle and when comparing them I noticed something. Where the waistband connected was across the flat BACK of the curved part NOT along the curved edge. If I attached my wasitline back where Amazon had it the bustle would never sit flat against my back as it would be pulling in the wrong direction.

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Amanda’s Bustle, notice the tight U shape and the flat part at the top.

Now I could have put in a patch at the top to make up the difference and bring my bustle all the way up, but this was a 1 hour upgrade so I went withsewing the waistband to the sides and across the span and just leaving a hole…Who will ever know..other than the 7 people who read my blog and you won’t tell on me…right?

Arrows to indicate where Amanda’s is sewn to the waistband vs Amazon’s
1880s bustlin
She has a terribly annoying habit of actually finishing things…and boy what cute lace on your drawers m’dear!

I attached a roughly 1″ waistband to the bustle, I say roughly as I eyeballed it. It closes with two button holes that I intend to run ribbon through and tie. This will catch in a hook on my corset and the downward pull also helps keep the bustle flush in the back. But as I haven’t yet found a hook for my corset please allow Amanda to demonstrate.

The last thing I added to my now much better shaped bustle was a bit of gathered lace at the bottom, it’s nothing special watever I found in the stash, but it helps soften the line at the bottom. I gathered the lace and sewed it to the bottom hem right sides together, flipped it over and she done! An easy 1 hour upgrade to a $30 amazon bustle. Not bad right? Now I just need to make the dress…

My next project might involve a similar upgrade to this Bustle Petticoat, would anyone want a post about that?

So, you know, those Amazon links? Yeah, they’re like VIP tickets to the coolest show in town. And when you snag something through them, you’re basically giving my content a high-five. Thanks for being awesome!

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1882 Lemonade Dress

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1882 Lemonade Dress

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Aren’t you hot in that?!

This past weekend was our annual outing to Belvidere Victorian Days in Belvidere, NJ. Every year this event is in early September and I start thinking fall thoughts. I’d say half the times I’ve gone it was actually autumnal and half it’s been summertime heat…This year was sadly the later with temps in the high 90s.

Our friend the Earl of Westwood was setting up his camp from 1882 Egypt and I simply had to have a natural form dress to match. I love a good theme. (we’ll pretend the classic car collection and large array of pop-up vendor tents are a different theme).

 

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1880s afternoon dress in the FIT collection

I found this dress that I deemed PERFECT. It was autumnal it was cool and light, it was sophisticated and I wanted it. So I headed over to my favorite voile pusher on etsy and ordered 12 yards (which wasn’t nearly enough) of their finest “off white” voile. I named it “The Coffee Victorian” and eagerly awaited it’s arrival.

Like a kid on Christmas morning I eagerly dug into my package of fabric…it was yellow. Not like warm beige, or ecru, or dark tan..no it was YELLOW.  I put it in the naughty pile for a week.

I tried bleaching a sample. It became a slightly lighter yellow…it sat in the naughty pile…finally time was running out, and I decided: when life gives you lemon fabric, make a lemonade dress.

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You can hardly tell it’s 150 degrees Celsius can you?

Having spent so long pouting I kind of ran out of time to do all the finishing touches I wanted, and sewed the trim on the front at 11pm the night before. There is a lot I’d like to revisit about this dress before it’s next wearing, but surprisingly I like it enough that it will definitely have a second wearing.

 

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I’m not shopping…nope

The skirt is actually Truly Victorian TV208, I just added more fullness in back and ties behind the knees. I’ve used this pattern now three times for victorian skirts and I just adore the sweep of the train.

The bodice is TV 420 with some mods. The original had a high neck and a fake v-neck out of trim. But I have a plate in Harper Bazaar from 1883 with a deep V and it was 100 degrees.  For the same reason I did 3/4 sleeves.

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pay no attention to the fact I’m wrapped in my train

Amanda made my adorable bonnet for herself and promptly decided she hated it…so I giddily made off with it. I think it was a Lynn McMaster’s pattern? But not having made it I’m allowed to not really know.

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Posing for our tintype

We had such an amazing time hanging out after the public left when the lit the lanterns and we relaxed listening to good conversation, live music and I laughed till my sides hurt.

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Serenaded by the Earl himself

 

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Amanda looking dashing

 

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I’m not sure what I like more, the backwards flag or the spyglass “accidentally” aimed at Alice’s bustline

The Crazy Bird Lady Dress

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The Crazy Bird Lady Dress

On Saturday my friends and husband threw me an awesome-mostly-a-surprise-party for my  30th birthday. I knew I was supposed to wear Victorian, but I didn’t know anything more than that.  I had started this dress (knicknamed the Crazy Bird Lady Dress by Amanda) in 2011 for Belvidere and never gone back to it. By started I mean I made the underskirt and half of the bottom kick pleat, that’s it.

The party turned out to be in Laurel Hill Cemetery. A beautiful, huge, cemetery where the rich and more rich of Philadelphia were buried. We set up amongst the giant tombs in millionaire’s row. (Our tour guide said it is now called “Captains of Industry row” as idiots kept breaking in thinking the mausoleums were full of money…people are dumb).

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I can report they’re still dead

 

The fashion plate that started it all

The fashion plate that started it all

I had this ELECTRIC blue poly taffeta that was originally for something else but hadn’t gotten here in time. MadameKat showed me the above fashion plate and I was in love. Someday to make Amanda happy I’ll find a fake pigeon to hold and take a picture with.

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My version

I have to say I’m very pleased with how it turned out. The most time consuming part was figuring out the math and making all the rhombus shapes around the skirt above the kick pleat. It’s just so FLUFFY and fun to wear.

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We were in a beautiful location amongst Victorian monuments

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you can’t see it but I’m wearing my new tiara

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A group photo of the ladies

My friends came from far and wide to surprise me.  And boy did they! Many in brand new dresses and all looking gorgeous. Sadly we had lost Adrienne by the time of the group photo as she wasn’t feeling well suddenly and needed to de-corset and oooh boy can I empathize.

Oh Myyyyy

Oh Myyyyy

It was a was a completely amazing way to ring in my 30s. I am very blessed with the amazing friends I have and I love them all dearly. Even those who couldn’t make it were felt and loved. They know me so well that almost all of my presents involved, orange, plaid or sparklies.

The Bohemian Belle being silly

The Bohemian Belle being silly

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My new tiara in the car on the way home (courtesy of the ever tasteful MadameKat!)

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Look the sleeve bows I was up till midnight finishing…at home on the couch waiting for me when I got back. *headdesk*